Un japonisme patrimonial

Behind fashion heritage from Japan there is a complex history associated with the vogue for Japanism that France witnessed during the second half of the nineteenth century. This article sets out to analyse the different stages in the history of how Japanese textile objects and items of clothing inte...

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Main Author: Damien Delille
Format: Article
Language:fra
Published: Ministère de la Culture et de la Communication 2024-03-01
Series:In Situ
Subjects:
Online Access:https://journals.openedition.org/insitu/40384
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author Damien Delille
author_facet Damien Delille
author_sort Damien Delille
collection DOAJ
description Behind fashion heritage from Japan there is a complex history associated with the vogue for Japanism that France witnessed during the second half of the nineteenth century. This article sets out to analyse the different stages in the history of how Japanese textile objects and items of clothing integrated private and public collections, looking at the actors involved in this process, merchants, collectors, artists and scientists. The notion of a clothing and textile heritage in Japan is examined, in the context of the westernisation of the country during the Meija era, between 1868 and 1912. The study of the part played by universal exhibitions, in particular the Vienna exhibition of 1873, leads to the identification of the earliest collections of fukusa, kimonos and other elements of Japanese dress, creations dating from before the opening up of Japan to western influences. At the beginning of the twentieth century, the Paris Musée des Arts décoratifs and the Lyons Textile Museum both acquired several of these collections, aiming to make the special practices they witnessed available to the general public and textile industries. The article explores this long process which allowed for non-western items of clothing to enter heritage history in France and Japan.
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publisher Ministère de la Culture et de la Communication
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spelling doaj-art-d9c7816334fa431297580efc0b35f1bd2025-01-09T12:43:32ZfraMinistère de la Culture et de la CommunicationIn Situ1630-73052024-03-015210.4000/insitu.40384Un japonisme patrimonialDamien DelilleBehind fashion heritage from Japan there is a complex history associated with the vogue for Japanism that France witnessed during the second half of the nineteenth century. This article sets out to analyse the different stages in the history of how Japanese textile objects and items of clothing integrated private and public collections, looking at the actors involved in this process, merchants, collectors, artists and scientists. The notion of a clothing and textile heritage in Japan is examined, in the context of the westernisation of the country during the Meija era, between 1868 and 1912. The study of the part played by universal exhibitions, in particular the Vienna exhibition of 1873, leads to the identification of the earliest collections of fukusa, kimonos and other elements of Japanese dress, creations dating from before the opening up of Japan to western influences. At the beginning of the twentieth century, the Paris Musée des Arts décoratifs and the Lyons Textile Museum both acquired several of these collections, aiming to make the special practices they witnessed available to the general public and textile industries. The article explores this long process which allowed for non-western items of clothing to enter heritage history in France and Japan.https://journals.openedition.org/insitu/40384decorative artshistory of collectionsuniversal exhibitionsclothingfashionJapanism
spellingShingle Damien Delille
Un japonisme patrimonial
In Situ
decorative arts
history of collections
universal exhibitions
clothing
fashion
Japanism
title Un japonisme patrimonial
title_full Un japonisme patrimonial
title_fullStr Un japonisme patrimonial
title_full_unstemmed Un japonisme patrimonial
title_short Un japonisme patrimonial
title_sort un japonisme patrimonial
topic decorative arts
history of collections
universal exhibitions
clothing
fashion
Japanism
url https://journals.openedition.org/insitu/40384
work_keys_str_mv AT damiendelille unjaponismepatrimonial