Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements

The promotion of natural beauty has empowered women with textured hair to embrace their natural hair texture and opt for bleaching as a means of style variation. However, bleaching exacerbates the inherent fragility of this hair type, necessitating treatments to partially restore its mechanical prop...

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Main Authors: Carolina Botelho Lourenço, Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz, Renato Grimaldi, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos, Priscila Gava Mazzola
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2024-12-01
Series:Cosmetics
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Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/6/212
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author Carolina Botelho Lourenço
Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin
Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz
Renato Grimaldi
Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos
Priscila Gava Mazzola
author_facet Carolina Botelho Lourenço
Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin
Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz
Renato Grimaldi
Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos
Priscila Gava Mazzola
author_sort Carolina Botelho Lourenço
collection DOAJ
description The promotion of natural beauty has empowered women with textured hair to embrace their natural hair texture and opt for bleaching as a means of style variation. However, bleaching exacerbates the inherent fragility of this hair type, necessitating treatments to partially restore its mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, renowned for their strengthening properties, were evaluated regarding (I) their ability to penetrate both virgin and bleached textured hair using Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization (MALDI) time-of-flight (TOF) analysis, and (II) their effects by way of tensile and fatigue tests. The MALDI–TOF results revealed groups of oil molecules in the cortical region of the bleached textured hair. The tensile test results, in turn, showed that the oil treatments were unable to alter the mechanical properties of the hair. Conversely, the fatigue test showed an increase in resistance in the virgin hair, most likely attributed to a lubrication effect in the outermost portions of the cortex and cuticles. In the bleached hair, a reduction in resistance was noted following the treatment with the oils. Comparative analysis with a previous study on straight hair by our group suggests that external molecules diffuse more homogeneously in straight hair than in textured hair. The unique cortical structure of textured hair creates two areas with distinct diffusion zones, resulting in the irregular distribution of external materials and different effects compared to straight hair.
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spelling doaj-art-9d9d9fdd5a0b4520b91b528e30d9dad02024-12-27T14:19:23ZengMDPI AGCosmetics2079-92842024-12-0111621210.3390/cosmetics11060212Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical MeasurementsCarolina Botelho Lourenço0Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin1Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz2Renato Grimaldi3Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos4Priscila Gava Mazzola5Symrise Global Hair Care Center, Cotia 06715-725, SP, BrazilSymrise Global Hair Care Center, Cotia 06715-725, SP, BrazilSymrise Global Hair Care Center, Cotia 06715-725, SP, BrazilFaculty of Food Engineering, University of Campinas, Campinas 13083-970, SP, BrazilDepartment of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, PortugalFaculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Campinas, Campinas 13083-970, SP, BrazilThe promotion of natural beauty has empowered women with textured hair to embrace their natural hair texture and opt for bleaching as a means of style variation. However, bleaching exacerbates the inherent fragility of this hair type, necessitating treatments to partially restore its mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, renowned for their strengthening properties, were evaluated regarding (I) their ability to penetrate both virgin and bleached textured hair using Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization (MALDI) time-of-flight (TOF) analysis, and (II) their effects by way of tensile and fatigue tests. The MALDI–TOF results revealed groups of oil molecules in the cortical region of the bleached textured hair. The tensile test results, in turn, showed that the oil treatments were unable to alter the mechanical properties of the hair. Conversely, the fatigue test showed an increase in resistance in the virgin hair, most likely attributed to a lubrication effect in the outermost portions of the cortex and cuticles. In the bleached hair, a reduction in resistance was noted following the treatment with the oils. Comparative analysis with a previous study on straight hair by our group suggests that external molecules diffuse more homogeneously in straight hair than in textured hair. The unique cortical structure of textured hair creates two areas with distinct diffusion zones, resulting in the irregular distribution of external materials and different effects compared to straight hair.https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/6/212argan oilavocado oilcoconut oiltextured hairpenetration of oilsMAILDI–TOF
spellingShingle Carolina Botelho Lourenço
Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin
Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz
Renato Grimaldi
Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos
Priscila Gava Mazzola
Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements
Cosmetics
argan oil
avocado oil
coconut oil
textured hair
penetration of oils
MAILDI–TOF
title Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements
title_full Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements
title_fullStr Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements
title_full_unstemmed Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements
title_short Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements
title_sort penetration of vegetable oils into textured hair fibers integrating molecular matrix assisted laser desorption ioni zation time of flight mass spectroscopy maldi tof tof ms analysis with mechanical measurements
topic argan oil
avocado oil
coconut oil
textured hair
penetration of oils
MAILDI–TOF
url https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/6/212
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