Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?

Cosmetically active compounds (CACs), both of lipophilic and hydrophilic origin, have difficulty reaching the deeper layers of the skin, and this shortcoming significantly reduces their efficacy. One such CAC that occurs naturally in the human body and displays many beneficial properties (via reduci...

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Main Authors: Karolina Ogórek, Kinga Nowak, Emilia Wadych, Lena Ruzik, Andrei R. Timerbaev, Magdalena Matczuk
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2025-01-01
Series:Molecules
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Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/30/1/136
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author Karolina Ogórek
Kinga Nowak
Emilia Wadych
Lena Ruzik
Andrei R. Timerbaev
Magdalena Matczuk
author_facet Karolina Ogórek
Kinga Nowak
Emilia Wadych
Lena Ruzik
Andrei R. Timerbaev
Magdalena Matczuk
author_sort Karolina Ogórek
collection DOAJ
description Cosmetically active compounds (CACs), both of lipophilic and hydrophilic origin, have difficulty reaching the deeper layers of the skin, and this shortcoming significantly reduces their efficacy. One such CAC that occurs naturally in the human body and displays many beneficial properties (via reducing fine lines and wrinkles, tightening skin, improving its elasticity, etc.) is the glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine tripeptide complex of copper (GHK–Cu). GHK–Cu is a fairly hydrophilic compound with limited permeation through the lipophilic stratum corneum. On the other hand, liposomes capable of encapsulating GHK–Cu may improve its permeation potential. The present review discusses various issues related to obtaining insight into the permeation of CACs through the skin. Methods for studying the transport of CACs encapsulated by liposomes and free GHK–Cu across the skin barrier are summarized. An analysis of the literature data reveals that the transport of liposomes containing GHK–Cu received little attention. This research gap gives an impetus to the methodological developments for assessing the effect of liposomes on GHK–Cu transportation and trafficking.
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issn 1420-3049
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publishDate 2025-01-01
publisher MDPI AG
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series Molecules
spelling doaj-art-6827711c8e9e4ff1972b4dca5151e12c2025-01-10T13:18:59ZengMDPI AGMolecules1420-30492025-01-0130113610.3390/molecules30010136Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?Karolina Ogórek0Kinga Nowak1Emilia Wadych2Lena Ruzik3Andrei R. Timerbaev4Magdalena Matczuk5Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego St. 3, 00-664 Warsaw, PolandFaculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego St. 3, 00-664 Warsaw, PolandFaculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego St. 3, 00-664 Warsaw, PolandFaculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego St. 3, 00-664 Warsaw, PolandInstitute of Inorganic Chemistry, University of Vienna; Währinger Str. 42, 1090 Vienna, AustriaFaculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego St. 3, 00-664 Warsaw, PolandCosmetically active compounds (CACs), both of lipophilic and hydrophilic origin, have difficulty reaching the deeper layers of the skin, and this shortcoming significantly reduces their efficacy. One such CAC that occurs naturally in the human body and displays many beneficial properties (via reducing fine lines and wrinkles, tightening skin, improving its elasticity, etc.) is the glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine tripeptide complex of copper (GHK–Cu). GHK–Cu is a fairly hydrophilic compound with limited permeation through the lipophilic stratum corneum. On the other hand, liposomes capable of encapsulating GHK–Cu may improve its permeation potential. The present review discusses various issues related to obtaining insight into the permeation of CACs through the skin. Methods for studying the transport of CACs encapsulated by liposomes and free GHK–Cu across the skin barrier are summarized. An analysis of the literature data reveals that the transport of liposomes containing GHK–Cu received little attention. This research gap gives an impetus to the methodological developments for assessing the effect of liposomes on GHK–Cu transportation and trafficking.https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/30/1/136GHK–Cuskin permeationliposomes
spellingShingle Karolina Ogórek
Kinga Nowak
Emilia Wadych
Lena Ruzik
Andrei R. Timerbaev
Magdalena Matczuk
Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?
Molecules
GHK–Cu
skin permeation
liposomes
title Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?
title_full Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?
title_fullStr Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?
title_full_unstemmed Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?
title_short Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?
title_sort are we ready to measure skin permeation of modern antiaging ghk cu tripeptide encapsulated in liposomes
topic GHK–Cu
skin permeation
liposomes
url https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/30/1/136
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