Assessing Rip Current Occurrences at Featureless Beaches Using Boussinesq Modeling

Rip currents at featureless beaches (i.e., beaches lacking sandbars or channels) are often hydrodynamically controlled, exhibiting intermittent and unpredictable behaviors that pose significant risks to recreational beach users. This study assessed occurrences of rip currents under a range of ideali...

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Main Authors: Yuli Liu, Changming Dong, Xiang Li, Fan Yang
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2025-06-01
Series:Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Subjects:
Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/13/6/1139
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author Yuli Liu
Changming Dong
Xiang Li
Fan Yang
author_facet Yuli Liu
Changming Dong
Xiang Li
Fan Yang
author_sort Yuli Liu
collection DOAJ
description Rip currents at featureless beaches (i.e., beaches lacking sandbars or channels) are often hydrodynamically controlled, exhibiting intermittent and unpredictable behaviors that pose significant risks to recreational beach users. This study assessed occurrences of rip currents under a range of idealized morphology configurations and hydrodynamic wave forcing parameters using a wave-resolving Boussinesq-type model. Numerical experiments revealed that rip currents with durations on the time scale of 10 min are generated in the forms of vortex pairs, intensified eddies, mega-rips, and eddies shedding from longshore currents. In general, the key conditions that promote rip current formation at featureless beaches include shoreline curvature, headlands, moderately mild beach slopes (e.g., 0.02–0.03), normal or near-normal wave incidence, and large wave heights. Most importantly, this study highlights inherent uncertainties in rip current occurrences, particularly under conditions usually perceived as low risk: low wave heights, short wave periods, oblique wave incidence, and straight shorelines. These conditions can lead to transient rip currents and pose an unexpected hazard that coastal communities should be aware of.
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id doaj-art-4b82c2c7f5d44b7196f6b35ddaa0de22
institution Kabale University
issn 2077-1312
language English
publishDate 2025-06-01
publisher MDPI AG
record_format Article
series Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
spelling doaj-art-4b82c2c7f5d44b7196f6b35ddaa0de222025-08-20T03:51:56ZengMDPI AGJournal of Marine Science and Engineering2077-13122025-06-01136113910.3390/jmse13061139Assessing Rip Current Occurrences at Featureless Beaches Using Boussinesq ModelingYuli Liu0Changming Dong1Xiang Li2Fan Yang3School of Marine Sciences, Nanjing University of Information Science and Technology, Nanjing 210044, ChinaSchool of Marine Sciences, Nanjing University of Information Science and Technology, Nanjing 210044, ChinaSchool of Marine Sciences, Nanjing University of Information Science and Technology, Nanjing 210044, ChinaZhuhai Marine Environment Monitoring Center, Ministry of Natural Resources, Zhuhai 519000, ChinaRip currents at featureless beaches (i.e., beaches lacking sandbars or channels) are often hydrodynamically controlled, exhibiting intermittent and unpredictable behaviors that pose significant risks to recreational beach users. This study assessed occurrences of rip currents under a range of idealized morphology configurations and hydrodynamic wave forcing parameters using a wave-resolving Boussinesq-type model. Numerical experiments revealed that rip currents with durations on the time scale of 10 min are generated in the forms of vortex pairs, intensified eddies, mega-rips, and eddies shedding from longshore currents. In general, the key conditions that promote rip current formation at featureless beaches include shoreline curvature, headlands, moderately mild beach slopes (e.g., 0.02–0.03), normal or near-normal wave incidence, and large wave heights. Most importantly, this study highlights inherent uncertainties in rip current occurrences, particularly under conditions usually perceived as low risk: low wave heights, short wave periods, oblique wave incidence, and straight shorelines. These conditions can lead to transient rip currents and pose an unexpected hazard that coastal communities should be aware of.https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/13/6/1139rip currentstransient ripsBoussinesq modelingbeach hazard
spellingShingle Yuli Liu
Changming Dong
Xiang Li
Fan Yang
Assessing Rip Current Occurrences at Featureless Beaches Using Boussinesq Modeling
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
rip currents
transient rips
Boussinesq modeling
beach hazard
title Assessing Rip Current Occurrences at Featureless Beaches Using Boussinesq Modeling
title_full Assessing Rip Current Occurrences at Featureless Beaches Using Boussinesq Modeling
title_fullStr Assessing Rip Current Occurrences at Featureless Beaches Using Boussinesq Modeling
title_full_unstemmed Assessing Rip Current Occurrences at Featureless Beaches Using Boussinesq Modeling
title_short Assessing Rip Current Occurrences at Featureless Beaches Using Boussinesq Modeling
title_sort assessing rip current occurrences at featureless beaches using boussinesq modeling
topic rip currents
transient rips
Boussinesq modeling
beach hazard
url https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/13/6/1139
work_keys_str_mv AT yuliliu assessingripcurrentoccurrencesatfeaturelessbeachesusingboussinesqmodeling
AT changmingdong assessingripcurrentoccurrencesatfeaturelessbeachesusingboussinesqmodeling
AT xiangli assessingripcurrentoccurrencesatfeaturelessbeachesusingboussinesqmodeling
AT fanyang assessingripcurrentoccurrencesatfeaturelessbeachesusingboussinesqmodeling