Observations of Wave‐Breaking Direction and Energy Spread

Abstract Surface waves are important for remote sensing, air–sea exchange, and underwater acoustics. The short gravity wave spectrum is azimuthally broad and bimodal. However, widely used wave models fail to reproduce the degree of observed spreading and azimuthal bimodality. Recent studies show tha...

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Main Authors: Bernard Akaawase, Leonel Romero, Alvise Benetazzo
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Wiley 2025-07-01
Series:Geophysical Research Letters
Subjects:
Online Access:https://doi.org/10.1029/2025GL116452
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author Bernard Akaawase
Leonel Romero
Alvise Benetazzo
author_facet Bernard Akaawase
Leonel Romero
Alvise Benetazzo
author_sort Bernard Akaawase
collection DOAJ
description Abstract Surface waves are important for remote sensing, air–sea exchange, and underwater acoustics. The short gravity wave spectrum is azimuthally broad and bimodal. However, widely used wave models fail to reproduce the degree of observed spreading and azimuthal bimodality. Recent studies show that an azimuthally narrow spectral breaking dissipation due to long‐wave short‐wave modulation significantly improves model performance, highlighting the importance of better understanding the directionality of breaking kinematics. We utilized visible stereo imagery to investigate the directional wave‐breaking kinematics relative to the energy spectrum under aligned and misaligned winds and dominant waves. The results show that the statistical distribution of wave‐breaking kinematics closely aligns with the direction of the dominant waves and is azimuthally unimodal and narrower than the bimodal energy spectrum. These findings confirm the importance of exploring the directionality of breaking to improve our understanding of the spectral energy balance and spectral wave models within the short‐gravity range.
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publishDate 2025-07-01
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series Geophysical Research Letters
spelling doaj-art-2542eb1e48ef41a68bc155f2a29964b52025-08-20T03:58:44ZengWileyGeophysical Research Letters0094-82761944-80072025-07-015214n/an/a10.1029/2025GL116452Observations of Wave‐Breaking Direction and Energy SpreadBernard Akaawase0Leonel Romero1Alvise Benetazzo2Department of Marine Sciences University of Connecticut Groton CT USADepartment of Marine Sciences University of Connecticut Groton CT USAConsiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche (CNR) Istituto di Scienze Marine (ISMAR) Venice ItalyAbstract Surface waves are important for remote sensing, air–sea exchange, and underwater acoustics. The short gravity wave spectrum is azimuthally broad and bimodal. However, widely used wave models fail to reproduce the degree of observed spreading and azimuthal bimodality. Recent studies show that an azimuthally narrow spectral breaking dissipation due to long‐wave short‐wave modulation significantly improves model performance, highlighting the importance of better understanding the directionality of breaking kinematics. We utilized visible stereo imagery to investigate the directional wave‐breaking kinematics relative to the energy spectrum under aligned and misaligned winds and dominant waves. The results show that the statistical distribution of wave‐breaking kinematics closely aligns with the direction of the dominant waves and is azimuthally unimodal and narrower than the bimodal energy spectrum. These findings confirm the importance of exploring the directionality of breaking to improve our understanding of the spectral energy balance and spectral wave models within the short‐gravity range.https://doi.org/10.1029/2025GL116452wave breakingenergy dissipationwave spectrumobservationsocean surface wavesdirectional spreading
spellingShingle Bernard Akaawase
Leonel Romero
Alvise Benetazzo
Observations of Wave‐Breaking Direction and Energy Spread
Geophysical Research Letters
wave breaking
energy dissipation
wave spectrum
observations
ocean surface waves
directional spreading
title Observations of Wave‐Breaking Direction and Energy Spread
title_full Observations of Wave‐Breaking Direction and Energy Spread
title_fullStr Observations of Wave‐Breaking Direction and Energy Spread
title_full_unstemmed Observations of Wave‐Breaking Direction and Energy Spread
title_short Observations of Wave‐Breaking Direction and Energy Spread
title_sort observations of wave breaking direction and energy spread
topic wave breaking
energy dissipation
wave spectrum
observations
ocean surface waves
directional spreading
url https://doi.org/10.1029/2025GL116452
work_keys_str_mv AT bernardakaawase observationsofwavebreakingdirectionandenergyspread
AT leonelromero observationsofwavebreakingdirectionandenergyspread
AT alvisebenetazzo observationsofwavebreakingdirectionandenergyspread